I noticed a few weeks ago that there are baby bristlenose plecoes in the 300! I think there are at least two batches in there now. They seem to be settling in well enough, some are already significantly larger than the second batch and happily munching down on algae in the open. Given the water changes and feeding, I’m not surprised. If anything, I’m surprised I haven’t seen breeding in the checkerboard barbs, rosy barbs, or the scissortail rasboras. With all the live plants, any babies would stand a much better chance of survival.
I have always had issues with the filtration on the 300 gallon. For some reason, the pond bead filter just doesn’t seem to perform the way it should. The water has always had clarity issues from particulates. This has been extra frustrating because I am so used to working with canisters and have never had to deal with inadequate mechanical filtration.
When the water first entered the sump, it entered a section about 5″ wide or so with a foam block in the bottom that the water had to pass through to get to the K2 tumbling media section. The problem was that the foam block would become saturated pretty quickly and then the water would bypass the foam block (within days).
I ended up removing the first baffle and installing a plastic 3-drawer organizer raised up by PVC pipes. I cut the bottom out of two of the drawers and put eggcrate down. This way, the media is held up by the eggcrate, but can still drain very easily. I skipped using the third drawer just because the water level in the sump is too high and it would be submerged.
I am now experimenting with the best filter medias. I started with just some polyester quilt batting, but this was clogged up in about a day. I have also tried a dual density filter pad, but the finer section was too fine and also clogged up very quickly. Currently, I have some course foam in there that is approximately the same pore size as the foam block I had before.
I think the basic design I originally had works well in general, but on a 300 gallon tank with a lot of community fish and some very large fancy goldfish, one foam block simply wasn’t enough. Perhaps a wider section with three or so foam blocks laid side by side would work while not clogging in less than a week.
PUBLISHED AGAIN!!! The November 2016 issue of Practical Fishkeeping has my article on how Hole in the Head (HITH) and Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE) are not the same, their causes, and treatments.
If you want some very specifically shaped live rock and can’t seem to find the right pieces anywhere then making your own may be your best option. Obviously you will still need to get some actual live rock to seed any rock that doesn’t start as live rock. If making your own rock sounds like the option you are looking for here is a great article on it: http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/articles/how-to-make-your-own-live-rock
This is a very sad article. Banggai cardinals are endangered because the hobby’s demand is insatiable. This is not a case of habitat destruction or climate change. This is directly the aquarium industry’s fault. The demand for banggai cardinals is more than the wild and captive breeding combined can keep up with. We are making this species extinct. Even if you buy captive bred that just means there are that many fewer non-wild fish available and someone else will be buying the wild caught ones, so you are still part of the problem. I won’t be buying any more. The only people buying fish in this situation should be people ready and actually capable of breeding them. Other than that, until the entire supply is captive bred, we shouldn’t be buying them.
This is a very good and important read about carbon directly causing HLLE is saltwater. Keep in mind this is saltwater, not freshwater. In freshwater there is HLLE (not caused by pathogens) and HITH (caused by pathogens). Although carbon has been known to cause HLLE in freshwater this is very rare. Water quality and food quality are almost always the cause of HLLE in freshwater.
Deep in Brazil’s Amazon rainforest, the tiny city of Barcelos stands as a slowly crumbling monument to the country’s colonial past and centuries of hard-fought struggle against the encroaching jungle. Two days by boat from Manaus, the nearest big city, Barcelos lies along the banks of the Rio Negro, one of the Amazon’s largest tributaries.
I wanted a reef tank again and already had my saltwater system running, although I wasn’t doing much with it. I added a light to one of the 10 gallons and got a few frags but it wasn’t enough. I had an extra 75 sitting around (the one that was supposed to be the sump on my 300, but Marineland doesn’t know how to make stands that fit proper sized tanks in them) so I used that.
Originally the saltwater system consisted of a 40breeder, four 10 gallons, and a 40breeder sump. The skimmer is an AquaC EV-240 spray injection protein skimmer. The refugium light is an LED from eBay for growing ‘indoor plants’ so the color is perfect for photosynthesis and it is very intense.
To prep the 75 I drilled the drains (2x 1″) and return (3/4″), painted the back black, installed the bulkheads, and siliconed in a couple overflows. This is by far my favorite type of overflow. You drill it so it is where you want and the exact size you need. But instead of an ugly strainer or open PVC elbow, you get the nice clean look of a built-in overflow.
I built the stand. It includes a rack to hang lights. This design would work perfectly if it needed to house the sump too, I just happened to not need that since it is on the system.
The paint is an indoor/outdoor latex so it should be relatively durable when exposed to saltwater.
Plumbing went almost perfectly. The angled part of the drain is a tad too short so I almost couldn’t get the drain pipe into the sump. I also had to turn the return bulkhead so that the tubing wasn’t pressed up against the drain pipe.
The flow from the sump was actually too strong. The water level in the tank was too high. Fortunately, the Gyre pump is more than enough flow for the entire tank so I was able to cut back the flow from the sump without issues.
I used the same black sand I used on my last reef (Estes Marine Sand), so the black on black look should look really good and help all the fish and corals really stand out.
The good thing is I already had the main saltwater system running and all the live rock, so I was able to start stocking immediately.
- Gyre XF130
- Rio 32HF Return Pump
- Estes Marine Sand
- MarsAqua LEDs from eBay
- Aqueon Pro Heaters
- AquaC EV-240 Spray Injection Protein Skimmer
- eBay LED “Indoor Plant” Refugium Light
Stock so far:
- Green Rhodactis Mushrooms
- Lavender Birdsnest
- Green Birdsnest
- Green on Blue Lillian’s Montipora
- Derasa Clam
- Rose Bubble Tip Anemone
- Yellow Tang
- 2x Banggai Cardinal
- 3x Lyretail Anthias
- 2x Purple Firefish
- Royal Gramma
- Fire Shrimp
- 2x Cleaner Shrimp
More updates to come!